Rolling With the Times

Friday, August 22, 2008

Cuisine beyond the ordinary

(LVM " Aug 2008)

By Grace Bascos

One of the slogans of Yellowtail Sushi Restaurant & Bar may be, "This is how we roll," but the menu is so much more than sushi, more than just Japanese modern cuisine. In the hands of the talented Akira Back, a former professional snowboarder and Iron Chef America competitor, Yellowtail breathes new life not only into the former Shintaro space but also into Japanese fare as we know it.

A golden, scaled fishtail greets you at the entrance of the restaurant, where lounge seating is available. Dark woods surround the modern Japanese décor, and the open and airy dining room has an excellent view of the Fountains of Bellagio.

Because it's a Japanese restaurant, sushi is manda­tory here, and this is some of the freshest available in Las Vegas. Sushi and sashimi are elegantly pre­sented, and for those truly daring, fresh Japanese wasabi is available, grated tableside. Opt for the chef's personal soy sauce mixture to be brushed atop your sushi; a splash of it and there's no need to drown your sushi in regular soy sauce.

The small, shared hot and cold plates, however, are where Back's talent truly shines. Tai snapper, from the "cool" side, is presented with house-marinated masago and a light, fresh-tasting tosazu sauce, while a dash of cilantro brightens the bite upon the palate. Big eye-tuna pizza features the tuna sliced carpac­cio-thin with a ponzu sauce atop a homemade crisp tortilla. A whisper of truffle oil and cracked black pepper balance the dish out, creating a bite that is at once rich and light, tender and crisp. It's a marvel in the mouth. Toro, or tuna belly, is the most prized cut of the fish for its succulence and flavor. Served as sashimi, the toro is wrapped around micro greens and topped with decadent caviar. The contrasting textures and flavors create a wonderful dynamic, heightened by the brininess of the caviar and a bit of heat from a slice of jalapeño.

Those who want to leave themselves in the hands of the chef can choose the omakase, which is a six-course tasting menu that lets the chef make all the right decisions for you. This menu begins at $100, but for $135, you can upgrade to even higher quality products and additions to the dishes. Sake and wine pairings are also available for the complete experience.

You can step into essentially any casino and find a place that serves rainbow rolls, spicy tuna maki and deep-fried monstrosities that are the antith­esis of what Japanese food is all about. But if you're looking for a meal above and beyond standard dragon and glorified California rolls, head straight for the newly opened Yellowtail at Bellagio.